The most obvious influence of this season is Art Deco. The geometric patterns seemed to run off the models right onto the runway itself. The motif (which can easily go awry) was executed pretty tastefully for the most part and was especially chic in shirting and the high-stanced tailored suiting. There were touches of 1980s in the color story and silhouette and western flourishes like fringe and short collars were actually refreshing instead of corny. The novelty fabrications are definitely not for most men, but it certainly still has relevance to today’s market.  

I loved the long blazers as key fashion items. The a garment like this has great movement and is a quirky take on the blend between formal and outerwear:  

This leather cropped trench is going to be a big seller:  

Some of the collection, however, is kind of questionable. I understand the purpose of making a statement, but I find sifting through the crap (contrast tuxedo shirts, leather vests, and sleeveless dressshirts) to be tiresome. And it is a shame that the casting missed its mark. The finale of swimwear and robes would have been much more compelling on the right bodies.  

Check out the full collection here.

And the fact that she hired model titan Evandro Soldati to sit on the corner of her mattress for 5 seconds definitely ups the fashion factor.

Evandro Soldati, via models.com

“Before embarking on this story, I was invited by Margot Fooshee, senior vice president of marketing and public relations, to a meeting with her and Drexler. Fooshee, a wiry, attractive brunette who fearlessly sports daytime sequins, wanted to be sure WSJ. would describe J. Crew properly, because “there are often mistakes in the media.”

In the industry, Mickey is someone whose professionalism has been a constant call out in the work place. Sources say that yelling, outbursts, and emotional tirades are no stranger to the somewhat eccentric (as some politely put it) CEO.  A contact at BlueFly.com remembers being asked “Who the fuck are you?” by Drexler during a walk around the office when she was free lancing at J. Crew a few years ago. I am all for leadership getting to know their teams, but not if he is stumbling around terrorizing his employees.

CEO Mickey Drexler, J. Crew Group

This consistently emotional state had definitely permeated J. Crew as an organization. Those who have been with the company have said that merchandising is done on a more love-it-hate-it level rather than a proper balance of design and financials. But, with the great success and recent elevation of the brand, it is clear that the technique has been working thus far. J. Crew has opened its first wedding boutique and continues to expand its business.

As for the CEO, he claims, “I’m a lot easier than I was.” Yet, it is clear that the journalist does not believe it to be so.

And I don’t believe him either.

Sorry to have been so MIA. With finals, graduation, and the job search now over, I can really devote some more time to Sumptuary.

As for the full-time employer? Hint: $3 billion leather goods company.

–Andrew

By buying a $50 stake in a company, “supporters” will be given credits to put toward clothing purchases, as well as special offers like exclusive previews, showroom visits and fashion show invitations. Interestingly, case studies have indicated shoppers value having personal experiences with designers more than getting discounts, Weng said. Supporters will also vote for the styles they would like to see produced.

Fashion Stake is going to start with only 5 designers and apparently some established labels plan to create capsule collections especially for the site.

Fashion Stake Homepage, via The Cut

I am personally not sold on the idea as Fashion Stake as an investment tool. With the launch, each label may get many first time investments without establishing real loyalty and subsequent repeat donations. And with only 5 designers to begin with, Fashion Stake will have to quickly grow its portfolio in order to have any real leverage. Fashion Stake’s most likely success will be as a marketing research tool. Labels will have the opportunity to conduct their own research and really see what the consumer has in mind (something that consulting firms are paid big bucks to do).

However, aspiring luxury brands will want to be wary of this site. The entire point of luxury is about scarcity and exclusivity. By letting consumers essentially vote on your brand, you pretty much destroy any chances of that type of elevation. Could a label really become the next Rodarte or YSL when consumers so blatantly have input on the specs of a garment? My guess would be not at all.

It is amazing what designers for home can do! At Ralph Lauren, home designers take inspiration from the fashion collection. Check it:

Ralph Lauren, Spring 2010 via telegraph.co.uk

La Plage Collection, via ralphlauren.com

And it is just me, or does anyone else LOVE this varsity patch chair?

Varsity Patch Chair, via ralphlauren.com

But caution needs to be taken over the next few years as companies continue to more accurately plan and decrease inventory. After such huge success, Gilt Groupe announced that it  received a huge cash infusion to help expand its operations. But one of the main reasons the company got so much business was because of the unexpected inventory excess produced by the recession. How will the company be able to keep up the scale of business required to stay profitable?

Net-a-Porter Screen, via WSJ.com

Halfhearted attempts by companies at this type of venture are easily spotted. E-bay has opened its own online discount retail front, and I can’t help but feel shopping via Fashion Vault would be like ordering a veggie burger at a McDonald’s located in Dallas.

You once only donned the soles of diabetics in hospitals that were so crippled they needed specialty orthopedic shoes just to walk. Now, with your help, all of America can look just like schizophrenic patients from a hospital wandering around the streets unattended. Clever you are to have to climbed to such great heights by taking advantage of the average American’s desire to buy something so completely unnecessary that you are deemed “cool.” How is it that you discovered wearing Mickey Mouse and Spiderman buttons on our feet was the key to our hearts?

You were struck down temporarily by bankruptcy. Your enemies (people with style, taste, and overall common sense) rejoiced at your demise. But how foolish they were to so prematurely assume your death without realizing that, like cockroaches, a scourge like Crocs does not die easily.

Now you are back in full-force with the objective of penetrating all markets. And you are surely on your way to fulfilling your dream that every American owns a pair of neon green clogs with holes that don’t keep feet dry in the rain.

This newest addition to your campaign, the creepy foot eating shoe creature from a bad trip on LSD, will forever go down in history as another case of marketing genius.

Crocs Creature, via nymag.com